No, I did not mean torturing “terrorists” here.
I mean, Tourists of the domestic variety, who have long been neglected by all parties.
Over the past couple of years, I have belonged to this variety of folks in India. Due to the high levels of tolerance for poor environment, road conditions, facilities, and the like, the domestic tourists of even the upper middle class have gradually come to reduce their expectations, or rather, accept things as these are in practice. Rarely do they express their feelings, or able to counter criticism of the conditions by other people. The approach is – let us not worry about the journey itself, let us enjoy the destination – though the destination might as well be plagued by similar issues.
Let me amplify things a bit here with the specific example of our recent holiday to Dharamshala in Himachal Pradesh. We flew to Chandigarh from Mumbai, which was all right. More about Chandigarh and its beautiful layout in a later post, should I say I was amazed ?
From Chandigarh, there are routes to many hill stations in the Himalayas, so it is a natural enroute destination. Chandigarh is a Union Territory and serves as capital city to both the states of Punjab and Haryana.
We had booked a Scorpio SUV to take us from Chandigarh Airport to Dharamshala, a distance of 235 Kms, which we were told could be covered in approximately 6 hours. That should not take more than 3 hours in most developed countries, but it is OK given the conditions in India.
We were mentally prepared for actually 7 hours ! But, what was very surprising is that in Punjab, one of the wealthiest states of India, the roads were not great. As bad or good as we have seen in many other states. The highway was broken off in several places, and diversions were commonplace. There was rash driving, which is an accepted fact now in India for us – only these drivers do not reduce speeds on broken patches of the road, leading to huge bumps. Anyone with a back problem had it for sure.
As we entered Himachal Pradesh, I expected the road conditions to be better. It was, initially. But did not take too long to deteriorate, especially on the mountain road. At many places, stones were strewn all over the road, and sandy patches of road replaced the tar road. Quite dangerous for normal drivers like us, but not for those driver demons. Not only they keep the speed to 60 KMPH at the minimum, they also do acrobatics, trying to overtake lorries and buses on what is essentially a 1.5 car width road ! Amazing, and very dangerous.
This drive kept me very awake, I was in the front seat and had the opportunity to closely monitor the traffic situation, road conditions, and drivers’ behaviour and idiosyncracies. Don’t think I want to do this again.
Around 2 hours worth of bad roads before we reached Dharamshala in 6 hours and 15 minutes.
I thought that atleast the roads in Dharamshala would be good. Not to be. I was told by one of the restaurateurs that all roads are getting relaid and should look great by next year. Let me see. I thought that the presence of the Tibetan Government in Exile atleast should have necessitated better quality of roads.
However, having said all this, Dharamshala, McLeodganj, and Palampur are some of the best places that we have seen. Strongly recommended. May be you can find some extra money to fly from New Delhi to Kangra Airport which is around 12 Kms from Dharamshala, thereby reducing major pain of driving. But one thing about driving in these places though – the scenery is simply great and you would miss all of that in a flight !
More to come soon……..
Cheers
Vijay Srinivasan
01 Nov 2008
Mumbai